This isn't how the river usually looks in Valdivia. All of these fishing boats are in town for some protesting. It has been a big week for protesting in Chile. Most of it has been happening in Santiago, but Valdivia has had a number of big marches. It started on monday with the government voting to allow a hydroelectric project in Patagonia. The majority of Chileans don't want to see this pristine wilderness ruined by foreign owned dams. Chileans make their feelings well known to the government.
I had no idea how violent Chilean protesters until I saw the aftermath of what I would call a riot. When I crossed the bridge tuesday to go to salsa class there was a huge group of people going the opposite direction. Then I noticed that it was very smoky and that my eyes were starting to burn. Eventually I got to the university entrance where the streets were filled with fist sized rocks. The tear gas was pretty strong there too so I hurried through with my bike. Then I saw all the broken glass on the streets. Turns out it was from the students smashing out car windows. Luckly my bike tire made it through without any new leaks. The windows of the bank at the intersection were smashed or had rock sized holes punched through them. Eventually I ran into people I knew and they told me that the police had just come to break up the protest with tear gas and water cannons.
A few days later there was another protest going on. This one wasn't only about the hydro project. There were fishermen, Mapuche, education, and student protests all mixed together. I got stuck behind them on the bridge after my class go out, but they were still all calm and not in the rock throwing mood yet. Some protesters lit some tire an gasoline fires below the bridge. There were big black columns of smoke coming over the bridge. Then they also had orange smoke bombs pouring out more smoke. Sadly I didn't have my camera on me then. I watched them for awhile until the wind changed directions and blew the smoke my way.
Later that day I went to cross the bridge, but since the protest had turned violent I couldn't. The protesters and police were battling on the bridge. Armored trucks and tear gas vs lots of rocks. I watched with the large group of bystanders and people waiting to cross the bridge.
The protesters were setting tire fires all over the streets and ripping bricks out of the waterfront costanera to throw at the police. The police responded with their trucks called guanacos which spray dirt water on protesters. Eventually after they launched enough teargas canisters the students gave up. The students all ran off and the bridge opened again for traffic.
During all of this I was in a safe spot. The only problem was when the police screwed up and launched tear gas the wrong direction into the group of onlookers. I now know that horsed don't like tear gas. They were all sneezing and moving around restlessly (chomping at the bit?)
It was interesting seeing how Chileans protest. This wasn't just a one time sort of thing in Chile. They protest like this often. The police are prepared for them. I always wondered why they had the big riot van with protected windows. Now I know. They are used to this sort of stuff. They act quickly and harshly when there is a protest.
The Valdivia protests were estimate to be about 2000 people. In Santiago the were 30,000 people strong. There will be more protests over the hydro project in the coming weeks. I hear that the 21 of May is always a big protest day in Chile. I'll be sure to stay out of the crowds and upwind of the the tear gas.
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